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Jinja, Uganda

When Richard Preston, noted bestselling author of The Hot Zone, entered Mt. Elgon's Kitum Cave, on the trail of the world's most deadly disease, he wore a full-body Level IV biohazard containment suit. When I entered Kitum, a couple days ago, I dared to wear nothing more than hiking boots, slacks, and a T-shirt -

- although, in the interests of full disclosure, I should probably admit that the "I" there could be expanded into "I and everyone else who has ever been there." The locals must have thought Preston a total wackjob. But his fear was rational, if excessive; he believed Kitum cave to be the source of the Ebola Marburg virus.

The tusked salt miners of Kitum Cave )


Cringing Jinja )


King Leopold's Ghost, The Shadow Of The Sun )
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Kitale, Kenya

OK: when exactly did Lonely Planet become Terror Planet? Excerpts from the Nairobi section of their current East Africa guide:

Nairobi, or 'Nairobbery' as it is often referred to by residents, is regarded as the most dangerous city in Africa ... never walk around downtown with a daypack, bum-bag, camera, wristwatch, mobile phone or jewellery ... carry only as much money as you need ... at night, mugging is a risk anywhere - take a taxi, even if you're only going a few blocks. Also: Most local people choose to travel via the unique transport phenomenon that is the matatu ... many are driven by madmen with no concept of personal danger ... in some cases there is no alternative, but if there is a bus, train or plane, take it.

I violated all of these strictures on my first day in town, and frquently thereafter, and lived to tell the tale with never a nervous moment. And telling people not to take matatus in Kenya is like advising visitors to New York not to take the subway. I'm not saying crime and psychotic driving aren't rampant, but come on, whatever happened to common caution rather than terror? How about "be careful, don't flash your valuables, use your street smarts, stick to well-lit and populous areas after dark, and if a matatu driver seems erratic, have him stop and immediately get out." Why come to Africa in the first place if you're just going to spend all your time huddling frightened in your hotel rom?

I only reluctantly reverted to LP to this trip, because there's no Rough Guide to East Africa. LP's been going downhill for years now; I switched to RG in part because, after comparing successive LP Australia editions a couple years ago, I realized that the new one should have been emblazoned with "Now with 20% less information, and lifeless writing!" Sigh. How the mighty are fallen. What happened to Lonely Planet as the voice of intrepid travel? You know. Back when they were coolTM.


cities are like shopping malls, you see one you've seen them all )


Akamba away )


Place where the spirit lives and rests )


I have to keep reminding myself to slow down. I blame the Lariam.

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